A Fly on the Wall

When I finally got off the JMZ train at Hewes Street in Brooklyn, after the long ride from JFK, I swear… I almost died.

There was a bitter chill quickly infiltrating my extremely under-dressed LA person. I hastily descended the station steps and hit the street, my luggage clackering behind me, past roadside hunks of dirty snow. Luckily my host lived only blocks away. Even more luckily, the unassuming wedge-shaped corner storefront underneath the JMZ station I had hurriedly passed was to be my life-saving first destination later that night.

After borrowing some sweaters and spending an hour or so beside a space heater, Christopher and I headed back into the cold and down the street to Moto – what he confessed was his favorite restaurant. Period.

A train shuttered by above us as we crossed Broadway and hurried to a massive unmarked door filling the width of the corner. The only signage I noticed was a rusted Victorian-era bicycle hanging from a marquee outside.

Once inside and through a thick velvet curtain, a rush of warm air, delightful smells, and the sounds of live vintage tunes overtook my senses. You could say this little destination was out of a film, but more specifically of a scene in a Parisian Absinth speakeasy circa 1890. I settled into a church pew as water was poured for me out of an aged glass bottle. I ordered a glass of Syrah and delved into the small, but delectable-sounding menu.

I decided on the Alpine Mac and Cheese, with potatoes, sweet onions and applesauce. Christopher ordered a simple-sounding small plate of braised lentils with farmer’s cheese and fig bruschette. We decided to share a spicy tomato soup with goat cheese croute.

The soup was perfectly spicy, balanced well with the goat cheese. But the Mac and Cheese took the cake. It wasn’t too heavy, and the applesauce off-set the cream perfectly. I was convinced to try the date cake (with toffee sauce) instead of my reliable French standby, crème brulee. Christopher obviously knew what he was doing, as the warm spongy cake with lightly steaming toffee drizzle reached taste buds that had never been utilized… it was like fresh gingerbread, but with incredible depth and complexity. It was something to remember, and crave for nights, weeks, and months to come.

This began my culinary journey into the incredible jungle of New York’s foodie paradise. From here I chronicle each meal for my nine-day duration with a quip about the menu and atmosphere that made this trip my taste buds’ favorite to date. Here are the highlights of those days:

DAY ONE

Moto
394 Broadway
Brooklyn, NY 11211-9408
(718) 599-6895
Directions: J, M at Hewes St

DAY TWO

Veselka
144 2nd Ave
New York, NY 10003-8305
(212) 228-9682
Cross Street: 9th Street
Directions: 6 at Astor Pl

Ukrainian soul food in the heart of the East Village. Here dishes such as pierogies and kielbasa share counter space with standard diner breakfast and dinner fare. Try the raspberry blintzes or challah French toast – any time of the day! Be prepared to wait for a table. Or just swing by for the killer bakery selection.

Schiller’s Liquor Bar
131 Rivington St
New York, NY 10002-2402
(212) 260-4555
Cross Street: Norfolk Street
Directions: F to Delancey St, V at 2nd Ave

Wine bottles painted with prison-block letters line the walls; cool, flattering light streams through north-facing windows; and busboys with Heimlich maneuver instructions printed on their T-shirts — The attention to detail in the design aesthetic of this restaurant is immaculate.
Check out the bathrooms! The unisex washroom is confusing, but gorgeous.

DAY THREE

Bonita
338 Bedford Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11211-5204
(718) 384-9500
Cross Street: Between South 3rd and South 4th Sts
Directions: L at Bedford Ave

Marked by the old signage from the Mexican lunch counter that once occupied its space, Bonita respects its roots — and fine-tunes them. The counter still stands, but now the stools overlook a bustling open kitchen. The narrow dining space is loud and lively, and tiled walls reflect the flickering candles that top each table. A hip crowd endures the wait on the weekends to sample the restaurant’s inexpensive and traditional offerings. A mole afficianado, I approved heartily of their Oaxacan style recipe; rich, spicy and a tad sweet! Muy bien!

Café Odessa
119 Ave A
New York, NY 10009-5820
(212) 253-1470
Cross Street: Between Seventh Street and Eighth Street
Directions: 6 at Astor Pl

This East Village 24-hour eatery is equal parts diner dive, hipster hangout and old-style Russian staple. Not glitzy, but generous, it remains a warm, inexpensive oasis on the continuously gentrifying Avenue A. The menu reads like a diner in Odessa: kasha varnishkes, blintzes, borscht and more cabbage incarnations than you can count.

Mud

East Village coffee shop where the brew is rich and the food is granola-y… in a good way.

Billy’s
184 9th Ave
New York, NY 10011-4919
(212) 647-9956
Cross Street: Between 21st Street and 22nd Street
Directions: C, E at 23rd St

Disgruntled Magnolia Bakery star departs and opens his own, smaller, BETTER cupcake factory in Chelsea. Hit up after a day strolling galleries, but be prepared to wait your turn.

DAY FOUR

Rice
227 Mott St
New York, NY 10012-4144
(212) 226-5775
Cross Street: Between Spring Street and Prince Streets
Directions: 6 at Spring St.; B, D, F, Q at Broadway-Lafayette St.

Simple bowl dishes on the theme make this a great, quick and healthy lunch spot in bustling mid-town.

Babycakes
248 Broome St
New York, NY 10002
(212) 677-5047
(212) 677-0454 (Fax)
Cross Street: Between Ludlow Street and Orchard Street
Directions: F; J, M, Z at Delancey St

Holy shit. This is the best bakery in the World. This lil’ shoebox-sized Chinatown storefront has the raddest down-to-earth staff (of two!) – who were the first New Yorkers not to discriminate my LA origins. They love LA, and you’ll love their goodies!

Coconut oil, agave nectar, date sugar, garbanzo flour and homemade rice milk sub for gluten, wheat, dairy, refined flour and sugar at this wholesome bakery; and the resulting restrained sweetness is a welcome change from the over-sugary goods peddled by other cupcake-pushers in town. Peach muffins especially hold a moist, fruity sincerity and it’s hard to believe that there isn’t a drop of sugar in the chocolate chip cookies. Cupcakes are the most popular item, but the thin, quickly melting icing requires speedy eating. Good thing customers can swiftly down frosting “shots” for $1. They even sell plastic cupcake “to-go” containers a la tupperware. Bitchin.

DAY FIVE

Organic Grill
123 First Ave (btwn 7st. & St.Marks Place)
New York, NY 10003
(212) 477-7177
(212) 477-4442 (Fax)
Cross Street: 7th St

Boring “natural, gourmet” food. Pass!

Babycakes
Yes, again.

Dumpling Man
100 Saint Marks Pl
New York, NY 10009
(212) 505-2121
Directions: F at 2nd Ave

Yummy, cheap dumplings made before your eyes. Boiled or fried. Get the Monster sauce. Tasty.

DAY SIX

Lucky Strike
59 Grand St
New York, NY 10013
(212) 941-0479
(212) 274-9365 (Fax)
Cross Street: Between West Broadway and Wooster Street
Directions: J, M, Z; N, R; A, C, E; 6 at Canal St

This Tribeca bistro-meets-tavern is a great late-night abode to indulge in a ginormous burger or steak frites and a tall beer. The narrow front bar, with its low tables, bistro mirrors and well-worn wood floors, is a good spot to gossip over a jumbo-sized cocktail.

Diner
85 Broadway
Brooklyn, NY 11211-6005 View Map
(718) 486-3077
Cross Street: Berry Street
Directions: J, M, Z at Marcy Ave.; L at Bedford Ave.

Nestled under the Brooklyn Bridge is an incredibly smart restaurant hidden in a 50’s style train-car diner. Don’t be fooled, this place is a foodie heaven, perfecting American comfort food with a French twist. Menu is tiny and meat-oriented, so Veggies beware.
Also great for a relaxed late-night glass of wine at the candle-lit bar. Cozy!

DAY SEVEN

Florent
69 Gansevoort St
New York, NY 10014-1402
(212) 989-5779
Cross Street: Between Washington Street and Greenwich Street
Directions: A, C, E at 14th St; L at 8th Ave

A Meatpacking District hot spot, this retro diner boasts high end French-y eats in a laid-back but hip scene. The menu ranges from fantastic steak frites to more traditional coffee-shop favorites. Breakfast is served anytime, the prix-fixe brunch is a good bargain and includes a mimosa or bloody mary (weak) – but the coffee is strong.

Gobo
401 Ave Of The Americas
New York, NY 10014-3516
(212) 255-3902
Directions: 1, 9 at Christopher St.; A, C, E; B, D, F at W 4th St-Washington Sq; 6 at Astor Pl; N, R at 8th St

Global vegetarian cuisine made from ingredients such as tofu, nori, soy and more, with organic juices, smoothies and wines. This was the most fun I’ve had in dining for some time. Great for a group who wants to sample the eclectic family style menu. Portions can be small but are ridiculously delicious. The philosophy is true simplicity and grace in savoring the natural flavors of the earth. Gobo is a NYC culinary MUST.
Note: We did wait over an hour for a table to accommodate our size (even with a reservation), but our amazing server quickly eased us into our delicately unfolding experience with efficiency and grace. Mark my words: Worth the wait.

DAY EIGHT

Old Devil Moon
511 E 12th St
New York, NY 10009-3879
(212) 475-4357
Directions: L at First Ave; N, R; 4, 5, 6 at 14th St-Union Sq

Funky Southern hole-in-the-wall pleased our hungry, hung-over brunch bellies with home-style Cajun griddle goodness.

Moto

Thank you God for a round two of Moto.
My first and last evenings were spent in my new favorite place.
Oh! Get the Black Velvet to drink (Guinness and Champaign).

DAY NINE

St. Helen’s
150 Wythe Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11211
(718) 302-1197
Cross Street: Between North Seventh Street and North Eighth Street
Directions: L at Bedford Ave

Adorable café off the uber-hip Bedford was (yes, you guessed it) opened by an ex-Northwesterner and named appropriately so. The design is quaint and Portland-y, with a simple English-inspired letter-pressed menu. Get a pot of fresh ginger tea and baked eggs and enjoy the sunny, laid-back ambiance.